Over the past century Americans have found new ways to use their homes, and their bodies, to display messages of allegiance and affiliation: to the nation, to a political or identity group, or to a cause. The word “activism” came into common use in the twentieth century, amid development of new media, a consumer revolution, many wars, and increasingly divided political parties. The objects in the Activist Home show how activism was, and is, often carried out through “campaigns,” whether political, military, social or cultural. Some of these campaigns represent governmental policy, such as the 1930s New Deal, which positioned the government as activist. Other campaigns reflect the ways in which individuals protested the government and inequalities that date back to The Federal Home. In these instances, textiles document dialogues around women’s rights, the environmental and civil rights movements, and youth culture around protest and the Vietnam War –dialogues that World War II fueled. Some textile artists used their medium as their voice when they could not participate in other kinds of civic engagement. While the word “activism” is associated with the later twentieth and twenty-first centuries, its spirit is present in the Federal and Progressive Homes through abolitionist and temperance objects, respectively.
New Deal Activism
In response to the Great Depression, Franklin D. Roosevelt initiated the Works Progress Administration (WPA) as part of his activist approach to government. The program ran from 1935 to 1943, and a key local component was the Milwaukee Handicraft Project (MHP) where women and men learned block-printing, rug-making, bookbinding, and many other skills. Uniquely for WPA programs, the MHP was racially integrated, meaning that many objects were created by African Americans, working alongside members of a variety of Milwaukee’s ethnic communities. This complex wall hanging, designed by the head of the block printing department, Barbara Weisman, represents the highest skills of MHP makers as it required them to layer multiple complex patterns of both images and text to illustrate the poetry of Persian polymath Omar Khayyam. The block-printed urns and eagles illustrate this process, as sample prints of distinct designs were replicated to create much larger compositions. Eleanor Roosevelt visited MHP and displayed a version of this hanging at her cottage Val-Kill.
Rubaiyat, ca. 1940
Barbara Warren Weisman (1915-?) (designer) for the Milwaukee Handicraft Project
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States
Woven and block-printed cotton
P.D.US.0017
Eleanor Roosevelt and Fala at Val-Kill in Hyde Park, 1948 print
Franklin D. Roosevelt (1882-1945)
New York, New York, United States
Photographic print
Franklin D. Roosevelt Library, National Archives
197263
Urn Sample Print, ca. 1940
Barbara Warren Weisman (1915-?) (designer) for the Milwaukee Handicraft Project
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States
Woven and block-printed cotton
Transferred from the Department of Environment,Textiles, and Design
P.D.US.0467j
Eagle Sample Print, ca. 1940
Barbara Warren Weisman (1915-?) (designer) for the Milwaukee Handicraft Project
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States Woven and block-printed cotton
Gift of Jane Graff
P.D.US.0474e
Eagle Sample Print, ca. 1940
Barbara Warren Weisman (1915-?) (designer) for the Milwaukee Handicraft Project
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States Woven and block-printed cotton
Gift of Jane Graff
P.D.US.0779d
In the 1930s, the Works Progress Administration partnered with the Bureau of Indian Affairs. These two weavings come from the Indian Weaving Unit (IWU) on the Lac Du Flambeau Anishinaabe Reservation, Wisconsin. The goal of this program was not to train Anishinaabe women in textile work, but to anglicize their making methodologies. It aimed for Anishinaabe to adopt a European-American economic model, and for their goods to go to poorer areas in the state. While there are long traditions of twining (twisting one set of threads around another, typically on a two-stick loom) in Anishinaabe communities that IWU makers continued, all goods from the IWU were woven on an upright floor loom. These items were required to appear “authentically” Anishinaabe despite the manufacturing difference, and the designs were sourced from museums rather than the makers’ own knowledge. Nevertheless, this rug has patterning similar to Anishinaabe twined bags—an indication of the maker’s resistance.
Bag, ca. 1935
Bertha Big John for the Indian Weaving Unit
Lac Du Flambeau, Wisconsin, United States
Loom woven wool and cotton
Gift from the Estate of Professor Helen Louise Allen
W.L.US.0037
Rug, ca. 1935
Indian Weaving Unit
Lac Du Flambeau, Wisconsin, United States Loom-woven wool and cotton
W.F.US.0208
Patriotism as Activism
Patriotism is a form of activism in support of a nation, its government, and its citizens. While this form of activism can raise challenging questions about belonging, allegiance, and political ideology, it can also bring comfort and consensus, especially in times of national crisis or profound social change. Handkerchiefs, as shown throughout this exhibit, mediate between the body and the body politic, often waved at parades or rallies. The top row of handkerchiefs shows the persistence of patriotic symbolism in the twentieth century, with stylized versions of the Great Seal of the United States, the United States map, iconic political figures, and founding documents. The remaining handkerchiefs date from World War II: they celebrate those on active military duty, and can be didactic, illustrating the insignia and badges of the armed services. As the military campaigns of World War II ended, they were replaced by social and political campaigns waged by identity groups who, having supported the United States through the war effort, now sought recognition from that nation for equal status within it.
God Bless America, ca. 1958
United States
Printed silk
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.265
E Pluribus Unum, ca. 1930
United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.510
Remember Pearl Harbor, 1942
United States
Woven and screen-printed cotton
Gift of Nancy H. Sechrest
2004.02.001
Platoon Sergeant, ca. 1945
W.J. Jenkins & Co., Inc. United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.613
Military Ranks, ca. 1945
J. H. Kimball, Inc., United States
Woven and screen-printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.621
Know Your Presidents, 1954
Franshaw, Inc.
Printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.560
Handkerchief, 1948
United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.509
Keep’Em Flying, 1942
United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.611
Military Ranks, ca. 1945
J. H. Kimball, Inc., United States
Woven and screen-printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.619
Military Ranks, ca. 1945
J. H. Kimball, Inc., United States
Woven and screen-printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.622
Declaration Of Independence, ca. 1950
Tammis Keefe (1913-1960) United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.506
Victory, ca. 1945
United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.609
Remember Pearl Harbor, 1942
United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.610
Military Ranks, ca. 1945
J. H. Kimball, Inc., United States
Woven and screen-printed cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.620
Party Politics
While the tradition of using textiles to support particular campaigns dates to at least 1840 (as shown in The Federal Home), this material form of political activism occurred on a broader scale in the twentieth century, and extended from specific candidates to political parties. These machine-embroidered handkerchiefs from the 1940 presidential campaigns of Franklin Roosevelt (Democrat) and Wendall Willkie (Republican) were likely produced by the same manufacturer. As much as these personal textiles signaled political affiliation, producers increasingly used stock templates that could be adapted to all the candidates running in a given year.
Roosevelt Handkerchief, 1940
United States
Machine-embroidered cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.550
Willkie Handkerchief, 1940
United States
Machine-embroidered cotton
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.551
The furnishing fabrics displayed here represent two stages of Dwight D. Eisenhower’s political career: candidate and President. The green “I Like Ike” lettering shaped as a loudspeaker was made for his campaigns in 1952 and 1956. The blue toile, which interior designer Elisabeth Draper created after designing several of Eisenhower’s houses including rooms at the White House, commemorates important places in his life. Many women, including the first lady Mary (Mamie) Eisenhower, transformed these furnishing fabrics into garments and accessories such as dresses, gloves, hats, and even umbrellas.
I LIKE IKE, 1952
United States
Screen-printed cotton
Gift from the Estate of Professor Helen Louise Allen
P.D.US.0220
The Eisenhower Toile, 1956
Elisabeth Draper (1900-1993) (designer),
F. Schumacher & Co. (manufacturer)
New York, New York, United States
Screen-printed cotton
P.R.US.0107
Pat Prichard was a prolific designer of handkerchiefs, scarves, tea towels and other domestic wares. These illustrations of donkeys and elephants are representative of a playful approach to political design that extended to the first televised political advertisement, which Disney animated for Eisenhower’s 1952 campaign.
Republican Elephants Handkerchief, ca. 1950
Pat Prichard
Printed linen
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.556
Democrat Donkeys Handkerchief, ca. 1950
Pat Prichard
Printed linen
Gift of Josephine H. Pollock
1992.05.555
Women's Rights
Toile Of Our Times, 1969
Mathilda Schwalbach (1917-2015)
Madison, Wisconsin, United States
Screen-printed synthetic fiber
P.R.US.1632
Mathilda Schwalbach (1917-2015) was an artist practicing silk-screen printing on textiles, and taught at the University of Wisconsin-Madison from 1945 to 1973. In these three pieces from 1969, Schwalbach demonstrates her commitment to women’s equality, inscribing traditional political textile forms, motifs, and colors with new meanings. Toile of Our Times updates the ideas of civic housekeeping for the late twentieth century, juxtaposing references to the National Organization for Women (NOW), founded in 1966, with the idea that domestic concerns are also public concerns (“Food. Shelter. Clothing. Just the Basics.”) Faces of the Decade Facing the World and O.K. Print It both feature a motif that appears frequently in Schwalbach’s work from this period. The globe shape references both a ball of yarn, and the stars and stripes of the Great Seal of the United States, and invokes the importance of women, and women’s craft production, in political reform.
O.K. PRINT IT, 1969
Mathilda Schwalbach (1917-2015)
Madison, Wisconsin, United States
Screen-printed cotton
Gift from the Estate of Professor Helen Louise Allen
P.R.US.1554
Faces Of The Decade Facing The World, 1969
Mathilda Schwalbach (1917-2015)
Madison, Wisconsin, United States
Screen-printed cotton
P.R.US.1631
Environmental Politics
Black Gold, ca. 1955
Payne & Co.
United States Screen-printed linen
Transferred from the Department of Environment, Textiles, and Design
P.D.US.0458
The establishment of Earth Day in 1970 led to public discussions about the role of both protection and profit in relation to the American landscape. What may appear to be cell phone towers on the fabric to the left are in fact oil rigs. The mid-twentieth century was a time in which extraction industries were considered unfettered means of wealth and prosperity. Decorative arts reflected this mood, such as oil fields on cocktail glasses and fabric designs titled Gusher or, in this example, Black Gold.
In 1972, the same year as the Clean Water Act, Reltex Fabrics took a pro-environmental stance with this No Dumping Allowed fabric by ironically showing the sign in front of garbage and using an all-green colorway to reference the burgeoning political movement.
Four years later, fiber artist Virginia Tiffany crocheted this eagle and globe, which fit together. The darkened globe depicts the spread of pollution, while the United States flag on the eagle recalls the American Century and how this country’s power can create both environmental problems and solutions.
No Dumping Allowed, ca. 1972
Reltex Fabrics
United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Mathilda Schwalbach
P.D.US.0658
Fiber Art, 1976
Virginia Tiffany (1923-2018)
Madison, Wisconsin, United States
Crocheted cotton and wool
Gift of Virginia Tiffany
1991.23.001a
Fiber Art, 1976
Virginia Tiffany (1923-2018)
Madison, Wisconsin, United States
Crocheted cotton and wool
Gift of Virginia Tiffany
1991.23.001d
Youth Culture & The Vietnam War
By the end of the 1960s, the United States’ involvement in the Vietnam War was a generational flashpoint and textiles brought those debates into the home. In 1969, the Woodstock Festival, billed as “3 Days of Peace and Music,” became a focal point for the liberal youth culture of the era. Concord Fabrics produced this cotton twill printed with an image of the event, to be used for clothing such as this cape and trouser outfit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. University of Wisconsin alumna Bobette Heller studied textile printing techniques with textiles professor Mathilda Schwalbach and created this wall hanging as a class project in 1968. Heller focused her concerns about the Vietnam War on the plight of children affected by the conflict. The historical aircraft superimposed on a camouflage backdrop may have referenced the recent 50th anniversary of World War I, but its production in 1972 placed that history in dialogue with the war that the United States was currently fighting.
Woodstock Crowd Apparel Fabric, 1970
Concord Fabrics, Inc., photograph by Baron Wolman (1937-2020)
United States
Printed cotton
Transfer from the Wisconsin Historical Society
P.D.US.0999
She Needs Your Love, ca. 1968
Bobette F. Heller
Madison, Wisconsin, United States
Woven and screen-printed cotton
P.R.US.1635
Biplanes Furnishing Fabric, 1972
United States
Printed cotton
Gift of Otto Charles Thieme
P.D.US.0717
Civil Rights
Flag Quilt, 2020
Sharon Williams
Gee’s Bend (Boykin), Alabama, United States
Woven and quilted cotton
Purchased by HLATC
2021.01.001
Gee’s Bend, Alabama, is famous for its quilts and their vital importance to African American visual and material culture. The quilts first gained recognition beyond their home community in the 1960s when a selection was exhibited and auctioned in New York City to raise awareness and funds for civil rights campaigns. Contemporary quilter Sharon Williams grew up in Gee’s Bend, learning the craft from her mother when she was not laboring in cotton fields. Williams descended from enslaved persons on the Pettway Plantation, and many Gee’s Bend quilters’ surnames, including Williams’ maiden name, reflect this history. This quilt, with its design in pieced strips, represents the aesthetic that Gee’s Bend quilts have come to exemplify. Her use of American flag fabric provokes us to reflect on what this nation may mean to Williams.
To hear Sharon Williams speak about her making practice, family history, and this quilt, listen to Episode 3 of the Center for Design and Material Culture’s podcast Refrangible.
The designer of these shirts, Brema Brema, was born in Sudan and moved to Milwaukee, Wisconsin, where he currently runs his label Unfinished Legacy. The idea of “home” in Milwaukee is marred by histories of redlining: governmental policies that denied African Americans the option to live in certain neighborhoods and thus cutting off their access to certain resources. These policies played a significant role in establishing the segregation that remains today. Brema’s widely-publicized butterfly design, which represents the beauty of the Black community, is his contribution to the Black Lives Matter cause.
Black Lives Matter T-Shirt, 2020
Brema Brema (1997 - ) (designer) for Unfinished Legacy
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, United States
Woven and screen-printed cotton
Gift of Brema Brema
2020.09.001